I didn't do the casting so we will leave that to another Instructable author to describe. Just having the free mahogany pattern was not much help to my foundry. The way the make the sand mold for the casting is to make two halves of the mold form the wood pattern. These two mold haves are then pulled off the pattern and laid open. In this mode, it is easy to lay the sand cores made in the previous step into the extension indentations made by the wood pattern, the other half of the main sand mold laid on top of that, yielding a perfect cavity of a manifold into which to pour the molten aluminum.
The two pictures in this step show a fiberglass half-mold I made of the manifold. The foundry can place the manifold pattern in this half mold, ram the sand for the final casting mold half over this half of the manifold, then turn this over, remove the fiberglass mold and ram the sand over the other half of the wood pattern giving the two halves of the sand mold ready for cores and casting. I apologize for the really bad pictures of the manifold in this step. I took them on the fly back then. If doing it today I would have taken better ones.
I can't take new shots since my son sold the car to finance a down payment on his first home. It was a good investment. Note the intake runner passages in the end of the manifold, the carburetor mount on top, just like a real manifold! I drilled the couple of mounting holes using an intake manifold gasket as a guide. Most of the mounts for this manifold use lugs that clamp down on edges of the manifold flanges with indirect bolts. The foundry flattened the mounting face of the manifold and carburetor surface on a huge belt sander they have.
The photos show a commercial carburetor adaptor flange I bolted to the top of my plenum for the Holley carburetor. Using these commercial adaptors, this manifold can use any carburetor.
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The last photo shows the manifold in place on the engine. Really came out nice and the car has so much low end torque you would think it had a V8 engine. I sanded and polished the casting for bling. If this was all I did on this project, it would be all for naught. Even though the manifold yields a perfect design, the heads still have wide open cavities between the adjacent runners.
Unless these are isolated, the organ pipe signals cannot do their job. The attached photo shows how I isolated the Siamese ports. The identified ports are intake ports, the ones to the right in the photo are exhaust ports. The factory isolated the exhaust ports but Siamesed the intake ones. Go figure. Note that the ports are partially divided by a boss through which passes a head mounting bolt. I started the separation by brass-brazing a steel rod, bringing the boss structure to the surface of the head for all three sets of ports.
I guess if you are a good welder you could weld up this surface to the level of the head. I had good luck with brazing. These buildups were slightly proud of the head surface and were milled flat by my local engine machine shop.
That still leaves a void behind the bolt boss between intake valve ports. These disks fit tight in that perimeter.
Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold
I then stood the head on end and built up a clay dam in the port on the bottom of the pair about level with the edge of the bolt boss. This isn't critical it will be fine tuned later. With the clay dam in place I poured Devcon Liquid Steel on the top of the void which soaked through the perforated steel and was poured to the level of the top side of the bolt boss.
Once the Liquid Steel set it is an ultra premium epoxy , it was an easy task to remove the clay dam and using my die grinder and a carbide burr to shape the two ports to a perfect shape for the soon-to-come organ pipe waves. It costs near the national debt but this stuff is well worth the cost. It is recommended for repairing cracked engine blocks, making machine parts, etc. It is the most impressive epoxy product I have ever seen. I have no financial interest in Devcon but I love this product.
Great article and nice ride. I know what you did, just having trouble picturing how you did it. Reply 2 months ago. Done before all these how-to web sites! It is really straight forward though. First task is to grind the bolt tubes cast into the intake runners to clean metal. Then braze strips of steel to fill the void and seal with the intake gasket.
Need to add little strips of gasket material to the stock Siamese gasket. Then sand the rest of the port clean with sanding drums so the epoxy will stick. Using Devcon plastic steel is important. It is formulated specifically to repair engine iron castings. I have never seen anything like it. Now stand the head on end and pack the bottom Siamese port with modeling clay but well below the perforated separator. Mix and pour the epoxy into the open port. It will fill the space below and above the perforated baffle.
When the epoxy is set, dig out the clay then use your die grinder to shape perfect individual ports. It is pretty much as simple as it sounds! Yeah, still lost. I'd still like to divide the port some how. Was thinking of making a flanged piece that would sit between the intake and the head that protruded into the head.
The part protruding into the head would bump up directly against the back of the port divider where you poured the Devcon to create a semi-seal. I know what I have to do, but I like your execution of how you used clay and perforated steel, just not completely understanding it. That casting is stunning! You have my vote. Reply 1 year ago. Very kind words. It did take some time but I never look at that aspect of my projects. I so much love being out in my shop making stuff, I really don't care how long the projects take.
For certain applications it's hard to beat castings.
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Did you, by any chance, consider a sheet metal intake? Yes, in fact I have built a couple of those.
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One was a tunnel ram manifold I built for my hemi when in college in the 60s. In the 90s I built a degree one for the hemi. I wanted to make this one look factory so went the extra mile. No didn't video the car. It ran just like any car!! Ran really nicely. Sounds like you did your homework.
I have to ask, did you flow test the manifold after casting to verify your results? And the most obvious setup would have been individual runners with single barrel carbs mechanically synced together. Did you consider that option? Either way, nice project. No we did not do any dyno work on the manifold. We did have seat-of-the-pants verification that told us it worked. Multiple carbs gets into the performance aspect with the attendant difficulties tuning those things. Our goal was a reliable, easy to maintain performance improvement which is what we got.
I have a history with this technology including designing and building an exhaust and intake manifold for a single cylinder engine in the mechanical engineering lab at Fresno State for my Senior Project in earning my BSME degree. Did all the dynamometer work and even built a pressure monitoring device that recorded port pressures every 15degrees of crank rotation to confirm the power curve is a function of port pressure. This stuff really works!! By Willys36 Follow. More by the author:.
About: Senior VP of an independent oil company. Never met a hobby I didn't like! Specifications of the desired manifold were; - cast aluminum for bling and robustness. Participated in the Metal Contest View Contest. Did you make this project? They are able to assess and determine the creativity, craftsmanship and skill that went into each vehicle, before selecting the winner.
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